J is for Jugendstil (Art Nouveau – #AtoZChallenge)


by Lillian Csernica on April 12, 2017

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From Macklowe Gallery:

Sometime synonymous with the term Art Nouveau, Jugendstil, meaning “Youth Style” in German, got its name from the magazine Jugend that first promoted the style. In the early 20th century the term only applied to two-dimensional examples in the graphic arts, later expanding to incorporate a broader range of the arts from architecture to decorative arts. Drawing from traditional German printmaking, the style uses precise and hard edges, an element that was rather different from the naturalistic style of the time.

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tademagallery.com

Jugendstil pendant, silver, enamel, and amethyst. Carl Hermann, Germany, circa 1900.

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tademagallery.com

Bird brooch, gilded silver, plique-a-jour enamel, pearl. German, circa 1900.

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facebook.com

Pendant necklace with tourmaline, gold, silver, and green enamel.

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skinnerinc.com

Silver, plique-a-jour enamel, and dyed green chalcedony. Theodor Fahrmer.

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beautyblingjewelry.tumblr.com

Jugendstil chatelaine, silver, enamel, and chalcedony. Germany, circa 1900.

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ebay.com

The pendant features a bell flower carved from ox bone with rubies set above it and marcasite stones set into the leaves.
The surround is German silver marked for 900 purity
with the makers mark AM which is Adolf Mayer and the mark
‘Original Handarbeit’.

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club.dtkt.com.ua

Fish pendant. Gilded silver, garnet, chalcedony. Eduard Schopflich.

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I is for Insect (Art Nouveau – #AtoZChallenge)


by Lillian Csernica on April 11, 2017

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lisak.net.pl

A butterfly with a cushion-cut aquamarine and cabochon opal body, extending blue and green plique-a-jour enamel wings, enhanced by cabochon rubies and calibre-cut emeralds, accented by a collet-set diamond and gold wirework detail, mounted in gold. Boucheron, 1900.

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Bentley & Skinner

A Victorian moonstone and diamond beetle brooch, the body of the beetle brooch set with cabochon-cut moonstones, the head and central streak of the body set with old brilliant-cut diamonds, estimated to weigh a total of 0.6 carats, with cabochon-cut ruby eyes, all set to a yellow gold back and sword with pearl set to the handle. Circa 1890.

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jewelry-sale

An Art Nouuveau gold, enamel, and opal scarf clip. Georges Fouquet, 1900s. Centering on an opal cicada set between open work enamel ivy leaves.

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sothebys.com

Sprigs of mistletoe set with circular and rose-cut diamonds, highlighted with pearls, to a central knife edge work web with a spider, its head a circular-cut diamond and its abdomen a similarly cut diamond of brown tint.

If you like spider jewelry (shudder!), you might enjoy this.

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1stdibs.com

Brooch with stylized bees. Natural pearls, green enamel, and 18k gold.

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V and A Collections

Gold and enamel brooch in the shape of a flower and a hornet, made by Georges Fouquet and designed by Charles Desrosiers. Paris, France, 1901.

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Blogging from A to Z: H is for Humane Society


Please consider buying a copy of Sharon’s memoir. It’s a great read for lovers of cats, dogs, and all animals. You’ll be supporting a great writer and helping more animals in need.

Sharon E. Cathcart

hIf you’ve known me for any length of time at all, you will soon hear about my passion for animal rescue and humane education.  I was always the one bringing home a stray cat or wanting to adopt a puppy from the box outside the grocery store, as a kid (I grew up in the 1970s and 1980s, in a rural part of Oregon … that was a common sight at the time).

I wanted to be a veterinarian when I grew up, so that I could help animals.  Unfortunately, that dream got put on the shelf.  While my language skills were in the tippy-top percentile, my math skills were not.  It was not until adulthood that I learned I had dyscalculia.  Anyway, those math grades were enough to keep me out of veterinary school, so I put that dream on a high shelf.

IllustrationCut forward to many years…

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H is for Hair (Art Nouveau – #AtoZChallenge)


by Lillian Csernica on April 10, 2017

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For those who don’t know me, I have long hair all the way down to my hips. My romance heroines have long hair. That’s appropriate to the time periods I prefer, plus there is a lot more romantic potential in grooming long hair, pinning it up, letting it tumble down, etc.

The jewelers who favored Art Nouveau designs enjoyed working with women’s hair, whether up, down, or something entirely different!

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pearl-nautilus.tumblr.com

Art Nouveau pendant “Poésie” by Paul and Henri Vever, Paris, circa 1900

Unger Bros., sterling silver brooch, circa 1900.

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kart773.ru

Gold, enamel, diamond, emerald, pearl.

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tademagallery.com

Gilded silver locket with chalcedony. German, 1900.

Sterling silver brooch. Unger Bros.

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boston.com

Gold, enamel, diamond, and pearl. French, 1900.

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G is for Goddess (Art Nouveau – #AtoZChallenge)


by Lillian Csernica on April 8, 2017

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I’ve had a lifelong interest in mythology, and Greek mythology in particular. Another abundant theme in Art Nouveau is the female form, presented in profile, the face as centerpiece, a maiden in Nature, and of course, the main Goddesses.

udemy.com

Antique sterling art nouveau locket — large size with repousse Greek Goddess of the Night Nyx. Depicts owl, moon, stars, torch.

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Bling Bling

Nike, Goddess of Victory

Gold and enamel, diamond, ruby, pearl and carved opal.

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Zeus and Hera, in gold and sapphire.

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etsy.com

Diana, goddess of the hunt. Brass plated in antique gold. Fine bronze filigree encases the black and ivory cameo. The pendant is decorated with Swarovski opal stones and a black diamond Czech crystal drop.

The Goddess Ceres. Peachy-pink coral, 14k gold with thistle motif.

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facebook.com

Head of the Gorgon Medusa, late 19th Century, Czechoslovakia. The brooch is made of gold, jasper, and pearl. (I include Medusa here because A) some consider her the Goddess of PMS, and B) this is a singular piece.)

This piece of the “Sacred Fire Odyssey” collection represents Vesta, the Goddess of Fire. For me, this is one of Rene Lalique’s supreme creations. From Lalique:

“The majestic, Fine Jewellery Vesta necklace is a perfect demonstration of the House’s craftsmanship and its emblematic jeweller features: a piece that adapts to four different wearing styles, including necklace, brooch or pendant, and the famous mixed-materials technique introduced by René Lalique, in which the precious and non-precious combinations serve the beauty of the motif – a fusion of gold, sapphire, diamond, fire opal, moonstone, engraved mother-of-pearl, cloisonné enamel and crystal.”

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F is for Furnishings (Art Nouveau – #AtoZChallenge)


by Lillian Csernica on April 7, 2017

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ebay.com

Ornate brass and porcelain inkwell

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liveinternet.ru

Art Nouveau fruit bowl

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exuvie.over-blog.com

Commode by Paul Aribe. France, circa 1912.

From Wikipedia:

The term originates in the vocabulary of French furniture from about 1700. At that time, a commode meant a cabinet or chest of drawers, low enough so that it sat at the height of the dado rail (à hauteur d’appui). It was a piece of veneered case furniture much wider than it was high, raised on high or low legs[2] and with (commode à vantaux) or without enclosing drawers.

 

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indulgy.com

Art Nouveau carved settee

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about-face-and-fashion.tumblr.com

Polished pewter card tray with maiden, 1906

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awesomeplaces.livejoural.com

Art Nouveau fireplace

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finescrollsaw.com

Art Nouveau cabinet

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titusomega.com

Juventa Art Nouveau flower dish circa 1905

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LiveAuctioneers

Art Nouveau Pewter Desk Thermometer

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chairblog.eu

Rattan chair by Carlo Bugatti, 1900

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Live Auctioneers

Leaded glass three panel floor screen.

 

 

 

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E is for Earrings (Art Nouveau – #AtoZChallenge)


by Lillian Csernica on April 6, 2017

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Earrings are by far my favorite form of jewelry. I like to make them and  I love to wear them. It took a real effort to settle on just a few fabulous Art Nouveau sets to display here!

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fairyblingmother.blogspot.com

Yes, these are indeed jellyfish!

Plique-a-jour enamel, drop-shaped opals, set in gold. Designer Georges Fouquet

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Walker Metalsmiths Celtic Jewelry

Sterling silver Celtic teardrop earrings.

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tobylynngems

Peacock blue opals, diamonds, and sapphires set in gold.

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sothebys.com

Enamel and pearl pendant earrings.

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tademagallery.com

Moonstones, sapphires, and diamonds set in gold.

Handcrafted in rose and green 14k gold and set with round and drop shaped sparkling golden green Uralian chrysolites.

 

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D is for Dragonflies (Art Nouveau – #AtoZChallenge)


by Lillian Csernica on April 5, 2017

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Another common motif in Art Nouveau is the dragonfly, particularly in the creations of master jeweler Rene Lalique. His name is synonymous with all that is best in Art Nouveau.

From The Jewellry Editor:

The dragonfly embodied many of the themes that the Art Nouveau style evoked: nature; sensuality; metamorphosis from one physical form to another; and a more fantastical approach as in the case of Lalique’s dragonflies turning into women.

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indulgy.com

Sterling silver art nouveau dragonfly ring.

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fotki.yandex.ru

 

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.enamel.miniatures.com

Gold and blue sapphires.

 

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artnouveau.soup.io

 

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dicovstyles.tumblr.com

A small, round, moulded-pressed opalescent glass box.

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marinni.livejournal.com

Tiara: enameled dragonflies all flying toward a large aquamarine.

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nuvomagazine.com

Detailed view of the aquamarine and dragonfly tiara.

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art-nouveau.livejournal.com

Gold dragonfly pitcher by Emile Galle.

There are so many lovely examples of dragonfly art in the world of Art Nouveau. I have room to show only a few. I hope these will encourage you to explore the world of Lalique and his talented contemporaries!

 

 

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C is for Case (Art Nouveau – #AtoZChallenge)


by Lillian Csernica on April 4, 2017

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In polite society, if you were anyone at all you carried calling cards, which made card cases among the most essential accessories for both men and women.

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kittysantiquejewelry.com

Antique Art Nouveau silver card case dated Christmas 1907

In addition to calling cards, ladies of society also had dance cards. When playing the marriage game or just having an evening out, a proper lady had to plan ahead!

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doyle.com

Two Austrian dance card cases circa 1901-1902

Smoking was a common habit in the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, even among ladies. The flappers of the Roaring ’20s called cigarettes “gaspers,” and kept them in ornate cigarette cases.

 

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Antique Art Nouveau silver and enamel cigarette case

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new.liveauctioneers.com

A Russian gun metal and silver Art Nouveau cigarette case, Moscow 1908-1917

For those who carried cigarettes, the natural companion to the cigarette case was the match safe, also known as a “vesta.”

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dempseyandbaxter on ebay.com

Gorham Butterfly Woman Sterling Silver Repousse Match Case

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American Sterling Silver Vesta

 

 

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B is for Bat (Art Nouveau – #AtoZChallenge)


by Lillian Csernica on April 3, 2017

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Of the many popular motifs in Art Nouveau jewelry, I have to say bats are among the strangest. Flowers? Sure. Insects? OK. Abstract geometric designs? No problem. But bats?

Thanks to the erudite Jewelry Nerd, you will find some possible answers here.

There are plenty of examples of this particular critter done in various precious metals and gems. I’ve included only a few. I guess the fashionable ladies of La Belle Epoque must have included some Goths!

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beautyblingjewelry.tumblr.com

Bat pin of plique-a-jour enamel, pearl, diamond, with ruby eyes, 18k gold, 4″ wing span

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jewelrynerd.tumblr.com

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pinterest.com

Bracelet by Philippe and Marcel Wolfers.

From 1stdibs.com: “A superb and iconic art nouveau portrayal of a Parisian goddess of the Demi-Monde. She has style roots going back to the Babylonian goddess Ishtar. The very revealing décolleté, flowing hair, bat wings and diamond Aurora head dress suggestively alludes to pagan pleasures and entertainments of the night, the practitioners only heading home with the dawn.”

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detournementsmineurs.tumblr.com

Art Nouveau Japanese Inlaid Damascene “Bat and Crescent” necklace in gold and silver.

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r.ebay.com

Art nouveau Czech bat pin with vaseline rhinestones.

Yes, that’s right. Vaseline rhinestones. Prior to the Cold War, jewelers could use uranium in the creation of certain types of art glass. The results resembled the appearance of the petroleum jelly as it was produced at that time.

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